Tween Travels

Madeleine and family backpacking around the globe

Basic Baumlers in Beautiful Bolivia

We booked a four day overland trip starting in Tupiza and ending at the Uyuni Salt Flats. Before the trip began, we spent two nights in Tupiza in a hostal. BTW, a hostal is nicer than a hostel but nowhere near as nice as a hotel. There was no heating in our rooms but giant bedding that made you feel like you were sleeping inside a teddy bear.

We only had one day there so we spent our time going on an awesome horseride and exploring the small town.

The next morning, we woke up early and watched the tour company load all of the supplies onto the jeep, including fuel, oxygen, water, sleeping bags, food and our backpacks. From about ten minutes outside Tupiza, we didn’t see another proper road for four days.

We spent four days traveling on piles of rocks, icy rivers, strands of dirt or narrow mountain trails with cliffhangers which I thought might end our life. I am very grateful for our kind driver Raul who got us everywhere safely.

We also had a cook, Marco, who travelled along with us and fed us every day. I hadn’t realized how much work Marco did until I learned he got up at 4 a.m. every day to prepare lunch and breakfast. He was very quiet but really nice.

First of all the good bits. We saw absolutely amazing sights including geysers, incredible rock formations, an Incan ghost town, flamingos, llamas, vicunas (like a small deer), foxes and chinchillas. We got to sit in a hot spring with vicunas running around in the background. We also passed through many villages where people don’t have electricity and kids have to walk two hours to school which made us feel really grateful for everything we have.

Now for the bad bits. First, let’s start with the worst: the “basic” accommodation. Before the trip I was told basic accommodation was sharing a bathroom and probably not the nicest of rooms. In my mind, I expected to be sleeping on a pile of rats. When we got to the accommodation on the first night at least there were no rats. The rats had probably died from the cold at nighttime.

There was a common room where we ate dinner and played cards. There was also the tiniest fireplace you have ever seen in your life. We had learned earlier in the day that no trees grew at that altitude (around 14,000 feet) so the only thing to burn was dried moss. A nice older man threw a few tiny moss bits into the fireplace which did absolutely nothing to warm things up.

After dinner we all huddled into the very small and smelly shared bathroom and got ready for bed. We slept on single beds in a freezing room under about six or seven blankets and a sleeping bag. Between the weight of the blankets (it felt like a dead person was lying on top of us) and the altitude, we struggled to breathe. It wasn’t the best night’s sleep.

The second night’s basic accommodation at least had a small heater but there was also graffiti on the walls. The bathroom didn’t even have soap (thankfully my mom had packed some.)

By the last night we were dreading what the accommodation would be like. It was on the edge of the salt flats and was made entirely out of salt blocks. But luckily we were able to upgrade for $20 and we got two rooms, both with private bathrooms!! Unfortunately we had to get up at 4:45 a.m. the next day to see the sunrise on the salt flat – William was very grumpy but it was worth it.

The other bad bits were the altitude (at one point 16,000 feet), having no internet, and the very long days of driving.

We spent the last day on the Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt flat in the world. It was magnificent. It looks just like ice but instead it was salt. The perspective on the salt flat is very crazy so we got some awesome photos and some videos, thanks to Raul and Marco.

I am happy we did this trip but I never want to do it again.

Next stop: Oruro, a mining town, then Copacabana and Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca.

13 responses to “Basic Baumlers in Beautiful Bolivia”

  1. angelab924c2f8f9 Avatar
    angelab924c2f8f9

    What an awesome post! I feel like I am on the trip with you. Question – do they mine the salt mines to supply salt to the world?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. It would be bad to eat the salt straight from there, but you can buy the salt for very cheap because it’s not fancy

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  2. lindsaythodge Avatar
    lindsaythodge

    Madeleine, this trip looked like an adventure for sure! What an amazing experience (both the good and the not-so-good). Those pictures on the salt flats are amazing!😆

    Miss you all!

    Lindsay

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Oh wow, Madeleine! I am late to your party as this is the first time I’ve gotten a contemporaneous report, but this one is a doozy! The text, the photos (especially like the one of Grumpy William) and the overall maturity/humor level is BRILLIANT! Sweetie, writing is your thing~ So this Bolivia jaunt won’t be on my bucket list. . . . but when your mamacita is home and I can tell her something in person, I have some wondrous news! Sending you all lots of love and better WiFi connectivity, and I can’t wait to learn of your news adventure!
    Love, Legal Mama Gail

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  4. lindsaythodge Avatar
    lindsaythodge

    looks so cool! And your next adventures look so fun! The photos and videos were amazing! 😋😁😆

    Miss you lots -Sydney ❤️

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Love reading all of your blogs Madeleine! You are amazing at describing all your adventures! The good and the not so good!
    You have made it now to July on your adventures and before you know it it’ll all be over but with so many memories which will last you a lifetime. Lots of love Grandma xxx

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  6. Wow, wh

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  7. Those are some great photos and videos! Yay for no rats!!!!

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  8. christinecolver Avatar
    christinecolver

    oh my goodness that was certainly an experience. The photos are fabulous. You will certainly appreciate home when you get back ❤️

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  9. This is my favourite comment – The rats had probably died from the cold at nighttime.
    I LOVE the write up and the pics on the salt flats are amazing.

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  10. These photos are so EPIC! Love the Pringles video. This trip looks incredible and I am loving your debrief of each adventure Madeleine. You are so funny! 😂 can’t wait to see what’s in store in Oruro, Copacabana and Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca.

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  11. What an adventure! Help me understand the prespective of the video and photos on the salt flats. Are the flats actually not flat, but at a slope (if that makes sense)?

    Thanks so much for your updates, Madeleine. So fun to read.

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  12. Kirsten Kneipp Avatar
    Kirsten Kneipp

    What an adventure. And the pictures from the Salt Flats are fabulous.

    Like

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We are a family of 4, my parents met traveling and later had kids and decided that they would take us traveling around the world too! And that’s how it all started!


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